How to Choose a Shade Tree

When you move into a new home, especially a newly-built home, the garden is often left, while you settle into the house. That is only naturally, but there are two things that you should try to do as soon as possible. One is planting hedges, and the second is planting one or more shade trees. Why? Simply because these garden features take time to grow, so when you do get around to working more intensively on your garden, they will already be doing their job. A lot has been said about hedges, so let’s look at that second matter, planting shade trees. There are several factors to consider, and since a mistake takes years to fix – while a new tree grows – and can involve expensive tree-removal too, here are some considerations that will help you make the right decision.

Deciduous or Evergreen?

For most gardens, this decision is an easy one, and as attractive as that big spruce might look in the middle of your yard, it doesn’t make an ideal shade tree. Unless you live in the hottest states, you almost certainly will appreciate the sun in winter. So will your garden, with many spring-blooming plants depending on spring sunshine to grow, before summer shade slows them down. An evergreen tree will limit what you can grow in its 365-day shade, so deciduous makes sense. You too will enjoy that late fall sunshine, and the early warm days of spring, if the sun is shining through a scaffolding of branches.

In summer too, the shade from deciduous trees is brighter, and not so dark as evergreens. That dappled shade beneath a maple is inviting, and the faster rate of water-loss from the leaves of deciduous trees works to keep the air beneath them a little cooler too – something that is often not considered.

So unless you specifically want winter shade, among the deciduous shade trees is going to be the right place to start looking.

Look for Flowers or Fall Color

While shade is the main purpose for a shade tree, the added bonus of flowers is always worthwhile. Especially if you have a small garden, some of the larger flowering trees make terrific shade trees. Among the best is the Mimosa Tree, or Persian Silk Tree, which has broad, spreading branches, and one-of-a-kind pink flowers in summer. It gives a wide spread of shade, even though it only grows to 20 feet or so in height.

As for fall color, we have so many choices, it’s hard to know where to begin. Sugar Maple and Red Maple are popular choices, especially in cold areas, and don’t forget the larger Japanese Maples for a small garden. With some pruning they can be turned into beautiful small shade trees over a table and chairs.

What is Your Soil Like?

A key thing to consider about your soil is how well it drains, and if there are periods when water comes right to the surface. Most trees like good drainage, so if your garden is low-lying, and the soil is wet almost all the time, then your shade-tree choices are more limited. A great tree for damp soil is the Tulip Poplar, which thrives in ordinary garden conditions, growing rapidly, but also tolerates damp soil and periods of flooding. This tree also has extraordinary flowers, that look like green and pink tulips, and clear yellow fall color, so it is something special that grows easily and is not planted as much as it should be. Another good choice would be the Pin Oak, which enjoys heavy, wet soils, and is fast-growing, even in urban conditions. It has fascinating fall colors, in bronzy reds, and a wide-spreading form, ideal for casting plenty of shade. Willows are often suggested, but some have extensive root systems, and they should only be planted well away from foundations, drains or septic systems.

If your soil is acidic, then oak trees are the ideal choice, as they will sometimes grow poorly in alkaline soil. On alkaline soils, all the cherry and plum trees thrive, as well as Flowering Pear and tough trees like Silver Maple. If you do have acid soil, then adding a little garden lime when planting your tree will be a big help if you have chosen something not specifically adapted to acid soil conditions.

Get the Position Right

The sun is always to the south, so it’s important, if you want good shade, that the tree goes to the south as well. Since the hottest time of day is afternoon, the sun will also be in the west at that time. So place your tree to the south and/or west, of the spot you want to be shady. If you have an area of lawn where you want the shade, then putting the tree in the right place may often mean not planting right in the middle. You might get more use from planting closer to the roadway, or to one side or the other. Don’t automatically put the tree right in the middle – look at a compass, or you may be disappointed with your tree.

This is especially true when trees are younger. A mature tree will usually be wide enough to sit underneath, but a small tree will throw useful shade long before that – just as long as you position it in the right place. After all, why buy a tree to shade your neighbor’s yard?

Allow Enough Room

This is something that is often not done, and we see lots of trees that are too large for the lot they are growing on, or too close to a building. Planting too close to your home is especially dangerous, as many trees have roots that can, in time, damage the foundations. Rather than looking at the height of the tree you are planting, look at the mature width. Allow at least half that distance from buildings or property lines, when choosing the place to plant your tree. For example, a Sugar Maple may be 40 feet wide when mature, so plant it at least 20 feet from the house. I know – it looks small right now – how could it possibly get that big? Don’t worry, it soon will!

Whatever choice you make, give your new tree plenty of water during the first and second growing seasons. That way you will develop a strong, deep root-system, and make your tree tough and hardy, for a long and happy future.

How to Choose a Shade Tree syndicated from https://www.thetreecenter.com

Modern Twists on the PG Hydrangea

If you live in colder parts of the country, the chances are good that you have seen the PG Hydrangea, even if you didn’t know what it was. This plant is a true garden classic anywhere winter temperatures fall below minus 10, the limits of zone 6. In these colder areas the ‘ordinary’ hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) doesn’t flower, because it needs some branches from the previous year to develop flower buds. Old wood is killed to the ground in colder weather, so they will grow back, but rarely flower. Today there are some excellent new varieties, like the Endless Summer Hydrangea, that will bloom well even when grown in zone 4 and 5. There, with temperatures in winter falling to minus 30, you can still have beautiful pink blooms. However, if you want larger shrubs for height, and easy care, then the PG Hydrangea is still your best choice in cold areas, and a great shrub to grow even in warmer regions.

This plant, known as Hydrangea paniculata, flowers in big conical clusters at the ends of new branches produced from hardy stems that overwinter easily, even when the mercury falls to minus 40. It is a large shrub, coming originally from China and Japan. An American called George Hall, a pioneer trader in Yokohama with a company called Walsh & Co. introduced it to America. In the 1860’s he sent over several new Japanese plants, including a garden form of this hydrangea, called ‘Grandiflora’ because of its large flower clusters. It soon became known as the ‘pee gee’ hydrangea, as the full name was rather long! This is also often written as PG Hydrangea – take your pick.

When it was discovered how hardy, and how easy to grow this plant was, it was soon in every garden. No wonder! With its huge conical flower clusters atop every stem, this plant really stands out in any garden. The flowers begin green, and as the clusters expand and grow they turn white. From midsummer into early fall, this lovely shrub brings interest at a time when few shrubs are flowering. Then in fall, as the cooler weather arrives, the flowers turn first rosy pink, and then rich red, creating a spectacular display.

For gardeners, this hydrangea has many advantages over ordinary hydrangea plants. It is more drought-resistant, an important feature in these times of water conservation. It will grow well in both sun and shade, so it can be placed almost anywhere in the garden. It does not mind if your soil is acid or alkaline, and its white flowers will be pure white in any soil. All it asks for is a well-drained soil, and perhaps some mulch over the roots in spring.

Since that first introduction, there have been many new forms of this beautiful plant created. Variations in size and flower color, as well as richer fall colors, have all been developed. The new PG Hydrangeas are definitely worth choosing over the standard form, so let’s take a look at some of them.

Tardiva White Hydrangea

This is a greatly improved form of the original pee gee, and it is identical to the variety ‘Floribunda’. It has longer, narrower flower clusters than the pee gee, so they are don’t bend over, and flop, a big fault with the original pee gee hydrangea. They remain beautifully upright and arching, making a great backdrop to other shorter plants. In fall, the flower clusters turn from white to shades of pink, taking on the tones of the season. Remember to cut some while the color is still strong. Strip the leaves away and hang them upside down until they dry. Placed in an empty vase they will bring color into your home all through the winter months.

Little Lime and Limelight Hydrangeas

These beautiful newer PG Hydrangeas have very modern looking lime-green flowers, rather than the traditional white ones. This stunning effect brings a very different look, and it is loved both by gardeners and flower arrangers. The main difference between these two varieties is size. The Limelight Hydrangea grows to between 6 and 8 feet tall, depending on how hard you prune it. The beautiful Little Lime Hydrangea only grows between 3 and 5 feet tall, making it perfect for a smaller garden. Since it grows smaller, less pruning is required, unless you want a very compact plant.

Both of these lovely varieties turn rose-pink in fall, and because they are small they make perfect plants for containers – so you can decorate your sunny or shady patio with beautiful flowering shrubs in large pots – a wonderful decorating look.

Colorful New PG Hydrangeas

If you want more color, then consider growing the bright pink Sunday Fraise Hydrangea, or for a powerful end to the season, plant the Fire and Ice Hydrangea, with its amazing flowers that start white, turn pink in summer, and then deep crimson in fall – a stunning kaleidoscope of color changes.

Pruning PG Hydrangea

Left to grow naturally, most PG Hydrangea bushes will reach perhaps 12 feet tall and 10 feet across – a size suitable for a large property. In most gardens, especially if you have not chosen a smaller variety, you will want to prune it, and keep it more manageable.

There are three levels of pruning suitable for these plants, and all are done in late winter or very early spring, before any new growth is seen. The lightest pruning is simply to remove small, weak and crowded branches, and cut off the old flowers, back to the first buds you can see. If any branches have died, you will be able to tell them – and remove them – because the bark will be wrinkled and darker in color. Live branches have a thin green layer beneath the bark.

Harder pruning begins the same way, by removing weaker branches, but then the flowering stems are cut back to leave 4 buds on the stem. The third method is very similar, but this time you cut back to just two buds.

Each method gives different results. The fewer buds you leave, the later the flowers will form in the season, but the larger the flower clusters will be. The choice is yours, and if you have several bushes you can even prune them in different ways, depending on how soon you want to see flowers.

As well, you can prune for the shape of your bush. You can have one or just a few main stems, like a small tree, by removing most of the lower branches completely, or leave several strong stems low down, to produce a bush that is leafy right to the ground. Trained in different ways, these great shrubs bring so much to any garden, they should be planted everywhere.

Modern Twists on the PG Hydrangea syndicated from https://www.thetreecenter.com

Top Drought Resistant Trees and Shrubs

With summer in full swing, and many people on holiday, plants in the garden can suffer in the typical dry conditions at this time of year. This may not be an exceptional summer for heat and drought, but even in normal years plants can be affected by dry soil and hot weather. Plants that are lacking water will stop growing, and they may lose leaves. The younger growing tips may die too, reducing even the modest amount of growth made earlier in the season. You may spend summer away from home, or simply not have the time or inclination to water. You may live in a part of the country where water conservation is an issue, or where summer watering restrictions are common, and need xeric plants, as these drought-resistant trees are often called.

Whatever the reasons, planting drought-resistant trees and shrubs makes sense. These plants are often beautiful too, so you don’t have to have a garden of cactus bushes to reap the benefits of plants that remain healthy and attractive through the driest and hottest weeks of the year.

5 Top Drought Resistant Trees and Shrubs

• Italian Cypress – thrives in hot, dry areas
• Arizona Cypress – the most drought resistant of the evergreens
• Wax Myrtle – tough enough to grow well even at the beach
• Blue American Agave – striking plant for totally arid locations
• Crape Myrtle – beautiful blooms are most profuse in hot, dry spots

Italian Cypress

A classic image of the Italian countryside is the clusters of pencil-thin, evergreens thrusting into the deep blue sky. These Italian Cypress trees have been grown since the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans, and today no Italian villa would be complete without them. The climate from Spain to Greece is well-known as dry, with long, hot summers. These trees are well-adapted to such conditions, and their tough foliage will remain fresh and green throughout the longest dry spells.

If you live in warmer areas, from zone 7 to the hottest parts of the country, then this tree can be planted wherever you want a strong vertical accent plant, or lined-up to make a dense and bold hedge. Available in the natural deep-green color, or in the rare blue-green form called Blue Italian Cypress, this tree is sure to attract attention. Two slender fingers on either side of a doorway, or framing an entrance drive, scattered in clusters across a large lawn, or clipped into a wall of rich green – no matter how you use it, this is one drought-resistant plant you are sure to love.

Arizona Cypress

If the Italian Cypress is too narrow, or you want a truly blue evergreen, then the Arizona Cypress has to be your number one choice. Renowned for its resistance to heat and dryness, and even sold simply as the Drought-resistant Evergreen, this tree, which really does come from Arizona, is even tougher than its Italian relative. Known correctly as Cupressus arizonica ‘Carolina Sapphire’, this tree is a special selection of the wild tree that was found in South Carolina, among some seedlings. The foliage is much finer and the color is a brilliant steel-blue, creating a stand-out specimen, or striking hedge. Since it grows wild throughout Mexico and the south-west, this tree is no stranger to drought, heat and then more drought.

If you garden in areas with watering restrictions, where your plants will have to survive on their own, with no help from you, then the Arizona Cypress is your friend. If you need some screening, or a clipped hedge, it will grow to 40 feet tall if you need that kind of height, or clip to any height at all, from just a few feet to a towering barrier. Once established, you really will not need to water, even after weeks and weeks of dryness. For toughness and resistance to the hottest and driest conditions around, this tree cannot be beaten.

Blue American Agave

Not all drought-resistant plants are trees, and although the American Agave can grow to be 25 feet tall when in bloom, it is mostly a much more modest 3 to 5-foot plant. Not a woody plant at all, the Agave is a striking cluster of dramatic leaves rising from a dense center. Each leaf is thick and fleshy, and edged with spines, and the surface is a waxy blue color, creating a striking architectural element in the garden, or when planted in a large pot. If you love modern design, or the traditional colonial architecture of California, then you will love this plant, which has ‘presence’ is spades.

You may need to wait a while to see the dramatic flowering, when a single stem thrusts up as much as 25 feet into the sky, carrying hundreds of creamy-white flowers. Also called the century plant, it doesn’t actually take that many years to flower, but the plant needs to be fully mature before it happens. Until then, enjoy the bold, blue leaves, and don’t bother too much with the watering can. A true desert plant, the Blue American Agave will live for years in dry soil, putting on bursts of growth when a little water is available. If you like ‘different’, then this is the drought-resistant choice for you garden.

Wax Myrtle

Not all drought-resistant plants have tight needle-foliage, or look like cacti. When you first see the Wax Myrtle, you see an attractive bush, with regular-looking glossy leaves in a rich green color. They may feel a little leathery, but otherwise you would never suspect that this plant will thrive in pure sand, and resist ocean spray as well. That glossy look comes from a thick coating that retains moisture inside the leaves, and protects them from salt too. The ‘wax’ part of the name comes from the clusters of small, blue-gray berries that form in the fall. Perfect for the holiday season, you can make your own bayberry candles, by boiling these berries in water and collecting the wax that is released. Planted as a bushy specimen, or as a screen against wind and salt-drift, you will love the Wax Myrtle for its drought-resistance and over-all toughness in the most difficult locations.

Crape Myrtle

We don’t usually associate colorful blossoms with drought conditions, but the Crape Myrtle, available in many sizes and colors, certainly proves that dryness and flowers can go together. In fact, shade and too much water will reduce flowering in this tough shrub or small tree, which is ideal for bringing vibrant color to hot and dry gardens.

One last thing. . .

Although all these plants are very drought resistant, they still need some attention during the early years of growing. For the first season or two after planting, regular watering will encourage deep rooting, and establish your new plants well, so that they will be fully drought-resistant in the years to come.

Top Drought Resistant Trees and Shrubs syndicated from https://www.thetreecenter.com

Butterfly Bushes for Every Garden

The Butterfly Bush, once a favorite plant with children for the hordes of beautiful butterflies it attracts, has had some bad publicity in the last few years. Beautiful as it is, these plants produce a lot of seed, and this will easily spread and grow just about anywhere. In some parts of the country it grows where it is not wanted, and interferes with the natural ecology of the surrounding countryside. In the last few years there has been a lot of concern with this issue, and in some states, most notably Oregon, the sale of these plants has been stopped, because the invasive habits of the plant have caused such problems. To be clear, there is nothing harmful to humans or pets about these plants, and many biologists recognize that they can be a valuable food source to lots of different species of butterflies and moths. It is just that when they escape by seed into natural areas, they prevent the normal development of native plants, including forest trees in areas which have been logged. They also grow along rivers and streams, again interfering with the growth of native plants.

Can you Grow these Plants Safely?

Since the Butterfly Bush can only escape into natural areas as seed, then one clear way responsible gardeners can prevent that spread is by removing flowers heads as soon as they have faded. Even if you don’t get to them right away, most if not all the seed is released in winter, so as long as you cut down your plants in fall, and destroy the seed heads, they cannot spread. It is however better to remove the flowers earlier, so that there is no seed inside the heads, which could be spread from compost, for example.

If you are a responsible gardener, and conscientious about removing flower heads promptly, then you can continue to grow all the traditional varieties of butterfly bushes, such as the popular red variety, ‘Royal Red’, or the rich purple ‘Black Knight’. For large pink flower heads, the variety ‘Pink Delight’ is sure to please. If you live in a state that has no banned these plants outright, or if you live in the central and northern mid-west, where it is too cold for these plants to survive a winter outdoors, then if you dead-head, you can grow these plants with a clear conscience.

By the way, if you do live in an area which is too cold, you can lift the plants in the fall, place them in a pot, and once early winter has arrived, and the plants are fully dormant, simply store them in a cold place – it doesn’t have to have any light, as the plants have no leaves in winter – and bring them out and re-plant in spring. They will quickly sprout and be blooming in no time at all. The storage place can be a few degrees about freezing, or well-below it. Anything from zero degrees to 40 degrees will be fine. Keep the soil just barely damp, and the plants will survive perfectly.

Seedless Hybrid Butterfly Bushes

Even if you feel you can reliably remove the old flowers, you may still be reluctant to grow these plants. Many of us want to send the message to our friends and neighbors that we care about the environment, so we just won’t grow at all any varieties that could produce seed. You might live in Oregon, where there is an outright ban on these plants, so the option of growing them, even if you do remove seeds, is not available to you.

In that case, you will not want to grow the traditional varieties, but there is good news. Not wanting to lose these plants in gardens, several colleges and private plant breeders have set about producing new varieties that do not produce seed. That’s right – Butterfly Bushes that produce no seed and therefore cannot spread into wild places. These plants are perfectly safe to grow. In fact, they are so safe that even in Oregon, the state authorities responsible for the environment have agreed that they can be safely grown and sold. To avoid confusion, they are sold in that state as ‘Summer Lilac’, because the flowers look a little like the flower spikes of lilac bushes. Often the colors are lilac, blue or purple, very similar to the colors we find in varieties of the true lilac. The name ‘Nectar Bush’ is also used for some varieties, in tribute to the copious quantities of nectar produced by these plants. It is this sweet nectar that makes them so attractive to butterflies, and means these plants help many of these gorgeous insects to survive.

Summer Lilacs come in a dazzling array of colors. There is bright blue, in the variety ‘Blue Chip Jr.’ There is bright pink, in the lovely ‘Miss Molly’, and there is rich purple-red in the charming ‘Miss Ruby’. These are just a sample of the best varieties, but in total there are currently18 different varieties permitted in Oregon, the state with the strongest controls. These come in many colors, from white to purple, in many shades of blues or pinks, and in peach and orange shades too. Further new varieties are sure to follow over the next few years.

Names to Look For

The varieties already mentioned are perfect choices for a ‘safe’ Butterfly Bush, but other ones you will know are safe, if you see them available, could include the word ‘Miss’ in the name, or the word ‘Chip’, or they may be sold as part of a series called Flutterby Grandé. Most of these were produced by breeders at North Carolina State University, in Raleigh. Gardeners who love Butterfly Bushes owe a big ‘thank-you’ to these hard-working professionals, who have solved the problem of the spreading Buddleja. They have brought us all, wherever we live, a way of growing these sweetly-scented, charming plants. We can continue to feed our local butterfly populations, and at the same time protecting our local environments. A new generation of children can grow up playing in gardens where these plants attract such spectacular insects, and help teach a new generation about the wonders of nature – and also that we can garden responsibly, without giving up beauty.

Butterfly Bushes for Every Garden syndicated from https://www.thetreecenter.com

Some Interesting Evergreens for Gardens

Gardeners fall into two camps when it comes to evergreens – those that love ‘em, and those that hate ‘em. Some people find them boring, since they don’t flower, and mostly keep their leaves all year, with little color change as the seasons pass. Others love them for exactly the same reasons – they give permanent privacy, and provide a stable backdrop to the seasonal comings and goings of flowers and fall leaves on other plants. While it might not be possible to change their minds completely, if those ‘haters’ saw some evergreens that didn’t fall into the typical mold, they might at least partially move into the ‘lovers’ camp for a while. So with that in mind, let’s look at some interesting evergreens that bring something different to the garden, and don’t resemble the typical arborvitae, juniper or spruce tree.

Dawn Redwood

Now here is a tree that stands out among evergreens for lots of reasons, but the most interesting reason has to be that it isn’t – evergreen that is. Yes, it certainly is a conifer, like a spruce or pine, and it is a close relative of the famous Giant Redwood trees of California, which do keep their leaves all year round. The Dawn Redwood sees things differently, and belongs to an elite group of conifers that shed their foliage in winter. The others are the Larch (Larix), the Swamp Cypress (Taxodium), and the critically endangered Water Pine (Glyptostrobus) which grows in China and Vietnam. Being deciduous is enough to make the Dawn Redwood of interest, and of course it means it does not throw that dense winter shade that some people do not like, and that prevents many plants growing under evergreens.

The Dawn Redwood tree has the tongue-twister botanical name of Metasequoia glyptostroboides, and until 1947 it was only known from 50-million-year-old fossils. Now there is a talking point when showing visitors your garden! The tree was discovered in China by staff of Harvard University’s Arnold Arboretum, and caused a media sensation when they brought it back to America. If its ‘living fossil’ status was all it had, this would probably not be a tree of long-term interest, but it is undoubtedly also one of the most handsome trees around, and certainly therefore a top-choice tree. It is also a gift if you garden on damp or wet soil, since it will grow happily in exactly those conditions. There, solved that problem for you.

This is not a small tree, as it will grow to 50 feet in height, with an attractive conical form, and a spread of 20 feet or more. It will hold it lower branches for many years, so plant it where you don’t need to trim them up – it looks very handsome with branches reaching almost to the ground. The foliage of the Dawn Redwood is a little like that of a Yew tree, with soft, flat needles in two rows. They are a rich green, turning a dramatic rusty-red in fall. Use this tree as a unique specimen, or as a beautiful screen. It also clips easily into a magnificent hedge. The Dawn Redwood – an all-round winner.

Virginia Pine

Coming from much nearer home, this interesting native pine tree doesn’t have the usual pine tree look. The short needles are twisted in bunches at the ends of the branches, and the tree is broad and spreading, with a lot of ‘character’, even when young. There is a lot of talk and interest in growing native plants these days, but some are either hard to grow, or simply not very interesting in a garden. The Virginia Pine, Pinus virginiana, is certainly not hard to grow, in fact if you have poor, dry soil, and even clay soil, this tree will be right at home. Those are exactly the conditions it grows in all the way from Long Island to Alabama, and it will grow well for you in similar difficult spots on a larger property. Often dismissed as a ‘scrub pine’, in reality this is an interesting tree that is also so easy to grow that it’s a great choice for any low-maintenance garden. If growing native plants is something that appeals to you, then for ease of growth, this tree is a perfect candidate.

Although when crowded in a forest this tree grows tall and upright, when planted in a garden with space around it you will see a broad, irregular tree develop. If you have an Asian-themed garden, this tree has just the right rugged look, and it is also popular for growing as a bonsai tree, because the short needles look perfectly in scale.

Bruns Weeping Serbian Spruce

Say ‘spruce’ to an evergreen hater, and they will immediately picture the classic, and over-planted Blue Spruce, and lose interest. Show them a Bruns Weeping Serbian Spruce and they will sit up and take notice. No one could ignore this remarkable tree, and a mature specimen, once seen, is never forgotten. Picture a slender column, but one that cannot find it way, and instead meanders and turns in random directions. The central leading shoot adds 12 to 18 inches a year, and from it, becoming longer and denser lower down the tree, are pendulous branches that hang straight down, adding 6 to 8 inches to their weeping form each year, until they reach the ground and spread out around the base of the tree into a skirt of green. You can attach your specimen to a tall stake – it will reach 30 feet or more in about that many years, so make that a very tall stake – and keep it more-or-less upright, or you can just let it free and allow this unique tree to do its own thing and twist and turn as it will. Whatever you do, every specimen of Picea omorika ‘Pendula Bruns’, to use its full name, will amaze you, your neighbors, and everyone else who sees it. The tree is named after the Bruns Nursery, Bad Zwischenahn, Germany, where it was found in 1955. It is hardy to zone 5 and easily grown in full sun in any well-drained soil. In 2007 the American Conifer Society selected it as their Conifer of the Year, and if they don’t know a unique and novel evergreen, then who does?

Some Interesting Evergreens for Gardens syndicated from https://www.thetreecenter.com

Summer Care of Japanese Maple

Everyone loves Japanese maples, with their diversity of leaf color and form. Some are upright, some weeping, while some cascade elegantly over rocks and walls. Leaves may be green, or the coveted rich-reds that are always so popular. Their fall coloring is also varied and spectacular. Some have attractive seed clusters hanging from their bare branches, or brightly-colored twigs glowing in the winter sunlight. A keen gardener could almost build a whole garden around them, the range of varieties is so great and the diversity is so rich.

Keep Japanese Maple Healthy in Summer

• Keep them moist – don’t forget to keep the soil damp, with mulch and regular watering
• Give them afternoon shade – when planting your tree, arrange for afternoon shade in summer
• Choose a suitable variety – some forms resist burning better than others
• Keep them red all summer – plant a newer variety that doesn’t fade to brown
• Use nutrient-rich mulch – this feeds the plant as well as keeping the soil moist

It doesn’t take long for the new gardener to buy their first Japanese maple, since they are so enchanting and appealing. Sadly, some new gardeners are disappointed, finding that their plant does not thrive, and that although they begin the year with glorious spring foliage, as summer arrives the leaves scorch and brown. They then often fall and leave a bare tree just when you want it to be leafy, and of course meaning that those fabulous fall colors are nowhere in sight. With this in mind, let’s lend a hand and give you some tips on how to get your maples through the summer in good health, looking gorgeous and ready for that fall show to come.

Why Does My Japanese Maple Burn in Summer?

There are several interconnected reasons why Japanese maple foliage often dries up and burns in summer. The main reason is lack of moisture. These trees originate in Japan, and there the summer climate is very damp, with high humidity and frequent rain. If you live where summers are dry, the soil and root-ball can dry out, quickly causing the leaves to brown and scorch. As well, these trees grow naturally in the shade of larger trees, so they do not enjoy hot sun, which is most pronounced in the afternoons. Also, some of the varieties with very finely-cut foliage are especially prone to drying, since the leaves are so thin and delicate.

Lack of Water

This is the primary reason for leaves burning. In hot weather, to keep the foliage cool, water evaporates from the underside of the leaves. This must be replaced with water drawn up from the roots. Some garden plants have thick, leathery leaves that only lose a little water by evaporation, so when the soil is dry they are still fine. In contrast, Japanese maple leaves are thin and delicate, so they cannot stop losing water. If that water is not replaced from the roots, the leaves dry out, turn brown, and shrivel up. While this usually doesn’t harm the tree itself much, it certainly makes the tree look bare and it loses much of its appeal too early in the year.

To protect your tree from drying, add plenty of rich organic material to the soil when planting. Dig deeply, and mix that material well into the ground. Digging deeply will allow your tree’s roots to get into the damper soil down below. Add a layer of that organic material over all the roots, to conserve the moisture (and prevent weeds growing too). Water well throughout the spring and summer, letting the water soak down into the ground. A slow trickle for an hour to two is always better than a quick, heavy spraying, which often doesn’t go deep into the soil at all. Don’t rely on rainfall, especially once summer arrives. In a thunderstorm, a lot of the water simply runs off the surface, and bigger trees very quickly suck up any that does go into the ground, so that your Japanese maple may get nothing at all. A long soak once a week – or twice a week during very hot weather, especially if your soil is sandy – will keep up the moisture levels.

Hot Afternoon Sun

Even if you water thoroughly, you might still find that your Japanese maple is scorching, even if only at the tips of the leaves. If this is happening, you might have your tree in the wrong place. While these trees thrive with some direct sunlight, especially in spring, by summer they need protection from the hottest rays between noon and four in the afternoon. When choosing a planting spot – or where to place your tree if it is in a container – find somewhere where there is afternoon shade, but ideally some morning sun. This will keep your tree growing healthily, while keeping the leaves fresh and colorful all summer long.

Growing a more sensitive variety

The size of the leaves of Japanese maples is very variable – this is a large part of their appeal. Those that are often called ‘dissectum’, with deeply divided leaves in thin, narrow lobes, are much more likely to scorch than other varieties with broader leaves. If you don’t have much time for your garden and can’t be sure that sufficient water will be available, or you want to place a plant in a sunny place, then choose a broader leaf form. This is especially important if you live in warmer zones, where it is hard to keep those leaves from scorching. Generally, varieties with broader leaves are much less prone to scorching. The Coral Bark Japanese Maple is often recommended for hotter parts of the country, as with its broader leaves it resists drying well.

Choosing an older red-leaf form

Some of the older types of red-leaf Japanese maples are subject to color-fading, after the glory of their spring display. As summer comes, that brilliant red can turn a less attractive greenish-brown. If you want strong color all summer – and who wouldn’t – then choose a more modern variety like the Purple Ghost Japanese Maple, which can be relied on to hold its color well.

Starving your tree

If your tree is low in nutrients, the leaves will be smaller, so they will be more prone to drying. Keep your tree well fed, by using a rich mulch, and putting down some fresh, new material each fall. Garden compost, or rotted animal manures, like sheep or cow, are much better than bark chips, or shredded bark, which add nothing to the soil. As well, especially when your tree is younger, some feeding with liquid tree food is very beneficial.

 

Japanese maples are glorious trees, and every garden should have some. If you attend to these simple things, you can enjoy them without the frustration of scorching and burning foliage in summer. It’s easy to get it right.

Summer Care of Japanese Maple syndicated from https://www.thetreecenter.com

Tips on Placing Shrubs in Your Garden

Planting shrubs is the best way to create form and structure in your garden, and working with a selection of different ones, both evergreen and deciduous, and large and small, is the way to create variety too. Getting the balance right, between mass planting and individual specimens, using different heights, and with different foliage types, is the key to creating a garden that looks good all year. We want a garden that is both calm and interesting. There are some basic ideas we can follow, that will help us get it right, and create the garden of our dreams, so here are some tips on selecting and placing shrubs in your garden.

Tips for Placing Shrubs

• Plant in Groups – don’t just plant a collection of individual plants
• Use Repetition – put the same plant in several spots, it brings harmony
• Use Accents – upright or spreading, choose a variety of forms
• Scatter the Planting – don’t plant in rows, let sizes flow in and out
• Plant for Every Season – select plants with different seasonal features

Don’t Buy ‘One of Everything’

When we first discover the amazing variety of shrubs available to us, all with interesting features, the temptation is to want them all. Since our gardens are limited in size, it is very easy to end up with a collection of many individual plants – ‘one of this, one of that’. This is fine if you want to grow many different things and become a collector, your garden will inevitably look a little chaotic and disorganized. The choice is yours, but if you want a beautiful garden, resist that temptation and limit your choices to plants that work for structure and appearance, and be willing to use plants in groups, and repeated them around the garden.

Groups or Specimens?

Knowing how many of each plant to buy can be tricky, but there is a simple way to approach it, that works most of the time. Basically, the larger the shrub, the less likely it is you will want to plant it in a group. Plants that are more than 6 feet wide or tall will be big enough to stand alone, in all but the biggest gardens. Usually a large shrub 10 or 15 feet tall is going to make a statement all by itself, and unless you have a lot of space to fill, or want a screen, one in each location will be fine. Smaller shrubs, under 3 or 4 feet tall, will usually be lost in all but the smallest spaces, so they look best planted in groups. The ideal number for groupings is always an odd number – 3, 5, 7, or even more. This allows you to space them more naturally. Remember too that a group should look like a unit, so space the plants a distance about 65% of their final width, so they grow together a little and make a solid mass.

Repetition Brings Harmony

Repeating the same plant, alone or in groups, around the garden, is an easy way to create harmony, and tie the garden together. You may not have room for more than one example of a large plant, but medium-sized and small plants can be scattered around, just as we see in nature, where plants are usually numerous at any one location. If you have a few favorite plants, then use them around the garden as your ‘signature’. This will make the garden uniquely your own.

Choose a Variety of Forms

Most shrubs are basically rounded – usually a little taller than they are wide. But some have been selected to be narrow and upright, and others low and spreading. Plus, there are shrubs that are pendulous or weeping in habit. Up to a quarter of the area you plant can have unusually shaped plants, but don’t get carried away with this. Too many and you lose their purpose – to emphasize and accent the plants around them. Low, spreading forms are especially useful in the foreground of your beds, but remember when planting them to allow room for their spread, especially if the bed meets a lawn. Otherwise you will find them growing over the grass, and killing it. On the other hand, if you have paved areas, letting low plants spread across the paving is an effective way to soften the stiff, linear edges. That works well at the tops of walls too, where spreading plants will cascade down and soften those hard edges.

Don’t Plant in Rows

When you come to place your new shrubs in beds, obviously those that will grow taller should be further back, but don’t make the mistake of planting three rows – tall at the back, medium in the middle, and small in front. Create a more natural arrangement by planting some taller plants near the front, especially if they are narrow accents, and push some lower plantings further back. That is where groups are useful, as a group of low plants can flow inwards in one area, and a group of medium-sized shrubs can flow to the front in another place. This way you will create flow and harmony, and an ever-changing picture in your garden beds.

Consider the Flowering Season

When laying out those shrubs, taking into account when they flower is important. In any season, you want the interest spread around – although in larger gardens it is also possible to make season areas. In these, the focus is on planting for one season, and creating a powerful display. For the rest of the year you use other parts of the garden.

In most gardens though, spreading the interest around is the best approach to take. Plants that have both flowers and fruit, or fall color, are very useful in smaller spaces, as they bring interest to more than one season. Scatter the spring flowers around, and do the same for summer ones, and for the fall too. If you have a part of the garden you use most at one season – perhaps the barbeque area for summer – then focus appropriate seasonal planting in that area.

 

Planting shrubs in your garden is an on-going adventure. Something new is always catching our eye, and we want to use it in our gardens. If you have a good basic layout established, new plants can be slipped in, or used to replace something that hasn’t been a big success, without upsetting the overall look of your garden.

Tips on Placing Shrubs in Your Garden syndicated from https://www.thetreecenter.com